Top End of the Aussie Outback

It was time to leave the East Coast and start our outback adventure.

The plan was to get to Northern Territory in a week or so.... what's the rush right? This was the "adventure" part of our trip. The part we can see "real" Australia. The part everyone asks about, The Outback!

Our travel across (locations below)

We left Port Douglas (A) and took the inland road to Undara (B). They have some Volcanic Lava Tubes there that everyone said is a must see.

Undara Lava Tube

Another Tube... woo hoo!

But something was weird. I was standing in the middle of what was an ancient massive lava flow thinking... um yeah, ok a big hole in the ground. So, what's next... is there something exciting we'll see now?

Yeah, a tree! Wow! (that's sarcasm if you can't hear me). It's exciting because it grows from a collapsed tube that ran under the ground. I must say, the English tour guide (yes, we had a tour guide and it cost $52 per person... I know, a rip off right) was a very excitable chap. God help him if he rode a jetski, the poor guy would probably pass out with an adrenaline rush as soon as his bum hit the jettrim seat cover.

Given it was almost 40 degrees, hot, dirty, dusty, with lots of bull-ants and flies, we decided one night was enough. This was our intro into the outback and I was a little concerned. But it was all part of the adventure right?

Next stop was Porcupine Gorge (C). We booked a camp site here as there was supposed to be a good swimming hole at the base of the gorge. Oh how I looked forward to a swim too. It was so hot.

We took a "short cut" straight down. It was only a few hundred kilometers, yet our Navigation said it was going to take 5 hours?? That's odd, I thought.

Well, it all become very clear why the nav was saying 5 hours. It's slow going when you're driving on this!

The road between Undara and Porcupine Gorge (damn dirt)

Welcome to the outback! 

In a few hundred kilometers we saw maybe 3 other cars. We definitely took the wrong road. Actually, you knew something was very wrong when you come across some road work signs warning of rough road, only to find it in better condition than the road you were just on. I was looking forward to roadwork signs after that.

Pulled up on the "highway" for a photo

We finally arrived at Porcupine Gorge (C), however, for some reason, again, I wasn't feeling the love from the natural wonders the place had to offer.

Porcupine Gorge looking south'ish

To my utter disappointment, the lack of rain had left the water in the gorge green and looking unfortunately uninviting. That's a 100 metres or more down there!

The car park at Porcupine Gorge. That's my car in the distance. Notice no one else is here??

Maybe it was the city slicker in me, but I just couldn't stay here. I couldn't swim, it had no power and that meant no air conditioner, so we got in the car and decided to head to Hughenden (D), it's a main town after all.

Our plan was to stay in Hughenden (D) that night. 

As we drove in, we quickly realised that there is now a new definition for "main town". Ok, it was Sunday, but where was everyone!?

We decided to check out the Tourist Information Centre and ask about a place for lunch and the best caravan park. Well, no sooner did we start talking, the whole towns power went out.... arrrgh. Ok, bye Hughenden, we're out of here.

It was probably at this point I realised I wasn't the outback type. I guess you learn a few things about yourself during a trip like this. It's shallow I know, but I expected more from the towns. I expected... well... civilization. A cafe, a restaurant, hell even Subway. I mean really, do people out here live on stale roadhouse sausage rolls and out of date chocolate milk?

Because of our anti-outbackness, we put our foot down an traveled as far as we could. That was Julia Creek (E). Just like our exPM with the same name, we found it as uninspiring, with little substance, and a feeling that we'd be better off without it. No offence to the people living there. All friendly people, but come on, guys, have you heard of the big cafe shop boom in Australia!!

The next day we decided to make a dash for Tennant Creek (F). A massive 900+ kilometre drive.

Tennant Creek is a big town right? Nope, it's smaller than our little home town of Woy Woy on the central coast of NSW. Not what I was expecting again!

We unpacked our stuff on top of more dirt and got organised for a trip to Devils Marbles the next day. A quick look over everything was standard procedure when we stop.

It was at this point my usual state of breaking something at each stop exceeded all expectations.

What is that???

Oh my god... Noooooooooooo! The tyre was destroyed and we were maybe 12 hours drive from Darwin with one spare! This is not good. Nothing I can do about it other than cross my fingers and hope we make it.

We decided to go to Devils Marbles the next day anyway. I'm glad I did. After thousands of kilometres of nothingness this was worth the trip. Uniquely amazing is what comes to mind. These massive round boulders were everywhere. They were all in an area around the size of a maybe 10 football fields, that's it. Like they were dropped here from space.

Devils Marbles Site

Devils Marbles "artty fartty shot"

A swim in the parks pool, and then begin to pack up for our early morning exit. We weren't going to miss Tennant Creek either. Again, there is nothing there. I really didn't picture these towns like this. I thought they were a lot bigger. Most don't even have proper grocery stores let alone supermarkets. I'm embarassed, being born here, and not knowing what these towns are really like.

The next leg was another big one; Mataranka (G). I can't believe how boring the drive is. I mean there is nothing. But not nothing as in the towns are small, I mean NOTHING. Even a game of eye-spy would be over in 3 letters; D - Dirt, T - Trees, and  R - Roadtrains (or Rocks if you wanted to be tricky)

An odd raised "hill" that breaks up an otherwise flat landscape

Here we are now. We've arrived in Mataranka (G). Mataranka is a "secret" spot known for it's Hot Springs or Thermal Pools (a hot creek that runs around this area). Its an Oasis in the middle of a dry and dusty outback.

Mataranka Thermal Pool

As spectacular as this place looks, it does have massive sand flies that have evolved their ability to bite you through your own T-shirt. But, the water was amazing and well worth the stop.

Next stop Katherine (H). Thankfully only a short 100km drive away.

So we crossed from the east coast and arrived in Katherine in 3 nights, yet it took us 6 weeks to travel from NSW to Port Douglas. I guess this is further proof I'm just not the aussie outback boy I thought I might have been. Honestly, I hate the red dirt, I can't stand the heat (without water), the flies must drink Red Bull, and the towns are like Rest Stops with cheap BBQ facilities. Sorry, that's just how I feel about it. I'm sure others love it, but I guess in the end, "you can take the boy from the coast, but you can't take the coast from the boy".

I miss the water already....